|
(Going Green continued...)
As with the definition of “successful” the term
“organic” is open to interpretation as well. True
organic fertilizers (bio-solids, poultry, fish meals,
etc) are being blended with synthetic fertilizers and
pre-emergences to make what I would call “hybrid”
fertilizers.
The companies can promote the products to be
“organic”, but at the same time offer a higher
percentage of nitrogen (which decreases bag
usage) and conventional crabgrass controls sprayed
on organic based fertilizers.
Corn glutton is recognized as the leading organic
crabgrass preventer. The cost of this product has
skyrocketed and in my experience, was very
ineffective. (To be honest, I only used it once. A
more fair assessment would’ve been done over a 2-
3 year period.)
The following is my suggestion for an organic
program:
Use true organic fertilizers or their “hybrid’ cousins
•Mow your grass at 3”-3 ½” if it’s a cool season turf
or 2”-2 ½” if it's a warm season turf
•Do a soil test every other year to be sure nutrient
levels and pH are in balance
• Aerate and over seed every year for cool season
lawns
• Learn to live with what weeds, insects or fungus
activity you get
The key to organic fertilizer applications is
timing. Here are a few tips to remember:
• Apply organic fertilizers 5-6 times a year(April-
October). This will help build up the organic matter
in your soil which should make the turf health and
more resistant to weeds, insects and diseases.
•Cultural practices (mowing, watering, aerating) are
more responsible for successful turf then any
applications of products.
•When you combine proper cultural practices along
with a sound fertilizer program, you will have a
more successful lawn.
Remember folks…“It’s just grass!”
Glenn Kraemer is owner/operator of the G.R.
Robinson Seed & Service Company, home of
"George’s Magic Mix." Mr. Kraemer is also a long
time instructor at the Missouri Botanical Garden and
specializes in practical, hands-on advice for home
lawns and athletic fields.
As with the definition of “successful” the term
“organic” is open to interpretation as well. True
organic fertilizers (bio-solids, poultry, fish meals,
etc) are being blended with synthetic fertilizers and
pre-emergences to make what I would call “hybrid”
fertilizers.
The companies can promote the products to be
“organic”, but at the same time offer a higher
percentage of nitrogen (which decreases bag
usage) and conventional crabgrass controls sprayed
on organic based fertilizers.
Corn glutton is recognized as the leading organic
crabgrass preventer. The cost of this product has
skyrocketed and in my experience, was very
ineffective. (To be honest, I only used it once. A
more fair assessment would’ve been done over a 2-
3 year period.)
The following is my suggestion for an organic
program:
Use true organic fertilizers or their “hybrid’ cousins
•Mow your grass at 3”-3 ½” if it’s a cool season turf
or 2”-2 ½” if it's a warm season turf
•Do a soil test every other year to be sure nutrient
levels and pH are in balance
• Aerate and over seed every year for cool season
lawns
• Learn to live with what weeds, insects or fungus
activity you get
The key to organic fertilizer applications is
timing. Here are a few tips to remember:
• Apply organic fertilizers 5-6 times a year(April-
October). This will help build up the organic matter
in your soil which should make the turf health and
more resistant to weeds, insects and diseases.
•Cultural practices (mowing, watering, aerating) are
more responsible for successful turf then any
applications of products.
•When you combine proper cultural practices along
with a sound fertilizer program, you will have a
more successful lawn.
Remember folks…“It’s just grass!”
Glenn Kraemer is owner/operator of the G.R.
Robinson Seed & Service Company, home of
"George’s Magic Mix." Mr. Kraemer is also a long
time instructor at the Missouri Botanical Garden and
specializes in practical, hands-on advice for home
lawns and athletic fields.
SOIL MANAGEMENT & COMPOSTING
by Jennifer Schamber
In this article, we’ll cover the first step which is
managing your soil and composting.
OBJECTIVES:
• Retain as much of the original topsoil as possible.
• Incorporate organic matter & soil amendment.
• Install a compost bin.
You may not realize it, but SOIL IS ALIVE! It’s
important that you protect the structure of the soil to
give plant life a better chance of surviving!
Here are some steps to follow for your soil’s
management:
1. If topsoil must be removed, it should be relocated
until construction is complete.
2. Limit the usage of heavy equipment on the soil and
do not allow equipment on wet soil. Saturated soils
are more likely to be damaged than drier soils.
3. If heavy equipment must be used, protect the soil
with plywood to help decrease the impact of tires and
distribute weight.
4. Conduct a soil test to determine the pH of the soil
and to detect any nutrient deficiencies. Many
problems can be solved by adjusting the pH of the
soil (adding lime to raise the pH or sulphur to lower
it).
5. Incorporate organic matter (i.e. compost) into the
soil. Leaf and stick mold compost is a native material
that will increase the effectiveness of the soil.
6. Incorporate AXIS into the soil. This soil
amendment will decrease water usage and help
control run-off water.
by Jennifer Schamber
In this article, we’ll cover the first step which is
managing your soil and composting.
OBJECTIVES:
• Retain as much of the original topsoil as possible.
• Incorporate organic matter & soil amendment.
• Install a compost bin.
You may not realize it, but SOIL IS ALIVE! It’s
important that you protect the structure of the soil to
give plant life a better chance of surviving!
Here are some steps to follow for your soil’s
management:
1. If topsoil must be removed, it should be relocated
until construction is complete.
2. Limit the usage of heavy equipment on the soil and
do not allow equipment on wet soil. Saturated soils
are more likely to be damaged than drier soils.
3. If heavy equipment must be used, protect the soil
with plywood to help decrease the impact of tires and
distribute weight.
4. Conduct a soil test to determine the pH of the soil
and to detect any nutrient deficiencies. Many
problems can be solved by adjusting the pH of the
soil (adding lime to raise the pH or sulphur to lower
it).
5. Incorporate organic matter (i.e. compost) into the
soil. Leaf and stick mold compost is a native material
that will increase the effectiveness of the soil.
6. Incorporate AXIS into the soil. This soil
amendment will decrease water usage and help
control run-off water.
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"Did you know that soil is alive? It’s important that you protect the structure of the soil to give plant life a better chance of surviving." |
If you’re looking for a way to make
your hosting your home more
welcoming for the holidays—
consider ushering in your guests
the Christmas spirit with
luminaries.
A light-lined driveway is sure to
awe your guests or even
neighbors—with or without a
“white Christmas.”
You can purchase your luminaries
from the store, however, you may
have fun making them yourself
since they are inexpensive and
simple to make with items you
probably have in your home.
Here’s what you’ll need:
Paper lunch bags (brown or white
or any color you prefer.)
Sand (if you have kitty litter on
hand, that will work as well)
Votive or tea candles
Lighter (preferably a long one)
1) Decide where you want to
place your luminaries. Will you
line just the sidewalk? Driveway?
Also decide how far apart they’ll
be spaced and thus determine
how many luminaries you will
need.
2) If you choose, you can decorate
your luminaries by using a hole
puncher to outline a design of your
choice. (optional but not
necessary)
3) Fill the bags with sand or kitty
litter. This will help prevent your
luminary from blowing over and
creating a fire hazard.
4) Line your luminaries in the
desired locations.
6) Go out in the evening, and light
the candles and place them inside
the bags. (Make sure your
candles are stable and resting
nicely in the sand/kitty litter.)
Some people prefer using tin cans
or mason jars for their luminaries.
No matter which material you use,
the effect is generally the same----
simply beautiful!
your hosting your home more
welcoming for the holidays—
consider ushering in your guests
the Christmas spirit with
luminaries.
A light-lined driveway is sure to
awe your guests or even
neighbors—with or without a
“white Christmas.”
You can purchase your luminaries
from the store, however, you may
have fun making them yourself
since they are inexpensive and
simple to make with items you
probably have in your home.
Here’s what you’ll need:
Paper lunch bags (brown or white
or any color you prefer.)
Sand (if you have kitty litter on
hand, that will work as well)
Votive or tea candles
Lighter (preferably a long one)
1) Decide where you want to
place your luminaries. Will you
line just the sidewalk? Driveway?
Also decide how far apart they’ll
be spaced and thus determine
how many luminaries you will
need.
2) If you choose, you can decorate
your luminaries by using a hole
puncher to outline a design of your
choice. (optional but not
necessary)
3) Fill the bags with sand or kitty
litter. This will help prevent your
luminary from blowing over and
creating a fire hazard.
4) Line your luminaries in the
desired locations.
6) Go out in the evening, and light
the candles and place them inside
the bags. (Make sure your
candles are stable and resting
nicely in the sand/kitty litter.)
Some people prefer using tin cans
or mason jars for their luminaries.
No matter which material you use,
the effect is generally the same----
simply beautiful!
Exterior content editor is Maryann Fink, an
Environmental Horticulture Advisor. Maryann
currently advises builders, landscape architects, other
professionals and the public on green projects that
create eco-opportunities.
For more information, visit www.maryannfink.com.
Environmental Horticulture Advisor. Maryann
currently advises builders, landscape architects, other
professionals and the public on green projects that
create eco-opportunities.
For more information, visit www.maryannfink.com.
Holiday Lighting with Luminaries